AT-200 stopped working via batteries? Won't turn on unless externally powered...

Started by peanutismint, December 02, 2019, 09:55:36 PM

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peanutismint

My AT-200 stopped working on battery power. I've tested the voltage coming out of the battery pack and it's 6V as expected. I also tested it running across one of the components on the Antares board, and it's also 6V so it's getting power, but the light won't come on and the sound output goes dead when I turn on the Antares. With external power via the DIN cable from my breakout box the system powers on. Also if I remove external power once it has 'started up', the guitar will then continue to run on battery power as expected. This has only started happening within the past few months.....

Any ideas what could have gone wrong? I wiggled all the connectors going to the board but still no light/sound.....

chrish

Have you cleaned the battery and ribbon connectors and switch contacts?


peanutismint

I haven't, but I will try that. What do you suggest? Get a can of contact cleaner spray and a toothbrush? Or is there a proper tool for getting down into the contact connectors??

I also found that the guitar will run on battery power as normal if I 'start' it by powering it on connected to the external power DIN cable, then if I unplug that cable it will continue to run on battery power as it used to, but if I cycle the power switch it won't turn back on again on battery power alone....Almost like it's not able to 'start'. Not sure if that tells you anything more?

chrish

Here are some tips. That Doxit D5 is the best stuff. I use it on the battery contacts when my avalanche transceiver doesn't switch on and on guitar pots.


https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=3132.0


GuitarBuilder

I suspect the output jack.  See if you can clean up the contacts there.
"There's no-one left alive, it must be a draw"  Peter Gabriel 1973

admin

Quote from: GuitarBuilder on December 11, 2019, 09:52:28 AM
I suspect the output jack.  See if you can clean up the contacts there.

It is a 1/4"  Switching type jack too - used to turn on the AT200 DSP board power

Best to review the ATG Internal Luthier Kit Instructions  - as the Peavey AT200 DSP board  is basically the same thing
https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=13462.0


peanutismint

Thanks guys, I've recently revisited this problem in order to try and diagnose it better and I thought about the possibility of the jack contacts being dirty/corroded too. I've had it open but can't see any issues, but every so often the batteries will work and then when I turn it off/on again it won't come back. Should I just try cleaning/resoldering the contacts on the jack socket and where they go out to the various other components too??

peanutismint

ALso I've been reading through the luthier guide about how the 'insert mono jack to power on' function works and it sounds like that could be the source of my problems but short of desoldering/resoldering stuff I don't know how to further troubleshoot....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/140M_ZY3zLT4I8McjrbWnRkN4SE4JZxwt/view

vtgearhead

Unless I'm misunderstanding that manual, it looks like V- from the battery is brought to ground by the sleeve of the mono plug - no switching contacts shown.  Unless things are really dirty or corroded on the jack, my focus would be on the tone pot pull-switch.  If you have an ohmmeter available remove the batteries, pull out any 1/4" plug and clip the meter leads across the switch contacts.  With the meter on its lowest range, observe what happens when you push in and pull out the tone pot.  In active position, resistance should be < 1 ohm.   When inactive, infinity.

admin

Quote from: peanutismint on March 25, 2020, 10:11:35 PM
ALso I've been reading through the luthier guide about how the 'insert mono jack to power on' function works and it sounds like that could be the source of my problems but short of desoldering/resoldering stuff I don't know how to further troubleshoot....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/140M_ZY3zLT4I8McjrbWnRkN4SE4JZxwt/view

Rough PDF scan version with no ability to text search

This thread covers ATG Installation
https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=13462.0

GuitarBuilder

I don't have my AT-200 any more, but if the board is at all like the Luthier Kit, power "on" is enabled by a solid ground connection between the TRS (stereo) jack ring and sleeve.  The ATG equipment uses a "soft" power-on control. The circuit board lightly pulls up a wire to 5 volts, which must be grounded for power on, and the grounding circuit is the TRS ring connection to ground.

This circuit is bypassed when powering the AT-200 via the MIDI connection, which is why that works fine.  You need to remove the stereo jack and make sure the ring contact hasn't bent or corroded over time.  Also check the solder connection at the ring contact.

If you don't feel you need this feature, just ground the ring connection elsewhere and the system will turn on without a plug inserted.  Make sure the tone control switch is not accidentally turned on in the guitar case!
"There's no-one left alive, it must be a draw"  Peter Gabriel 1973

vtgearhead

Quote from: GuitarBuilder on March 26, 2020, 11:46:31 AM
I don't have my AT-200 any more, but if the board is at all like the Luthier Kit, power "on" is enabled by a solid ground connection between the TRS (stereo) jack ring and sleeve.  The ATG equipment uses a "soft" power-on control. The circuit board lightly pulls up a wire to 5 volts, which must be grounded for power on, and the grounding circuit is the TRS ring connection to ground.

This circuit is bypassed when powering the AT-200 via the MIDI connection, which is why that works fine.  You need to remove the stereo jack and make sure the ring contact hasn't bent or corroded over time.  Also check the solder connection at the ring contact.

If you don't feel you need this feature, just ground the ring connection elsewhere and the system will turn on without a plug inserted.  Make sure the tone control switch is not accidentally turned on in the guitar case!

My comment about the pull-switch being a potential problem goes double if it's handling logic levels.  Unless the contacts are vacuum sealed (unlikely in a consumer device) it doesn't take much oxidation to cause issues.  Try hitting the switch mechanism with a shot of NON-LUBRICANT control cleaner and work it in and out rapidly.

peanutismint

Thanks for all the tips guys! Will give this a try and report back. Hopefully can get it functioning again. I can't recall if I mentioned but it does actually work on battery power intermittently, about once every 25 or so attempts at powering on, so I'm inclined to agree it might just be some kind of corrosion going on. Will get some proper non-lubricating contact cleaner (all I have at home during this quarantine is WD40!) and work it around in the push/pull switch (I'm assuming that's the switch you meant?).