GT-1000 - Tips & tricks

Started by admin, May 07, 2018, 11:22:12 AM

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John Daniel‎BOSS GT-1000
October 16 ·

These cheapy buttons are making me and my GT-1000 much happier than I thought they would: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DMQQ5LP/
They just kinda mush on top of the metal buttons and seems to stay just fine. I've had Barefoot Buttons in the past and can't justify the price for those.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DMQQ5LP/?fbclid=IwAR3p5UMa5WzvLpunFgQXIfl9oNj_mrTfQeWUtuZWDdLURQjjXOmKAjnI_Cw

BossHead

"All the modelers benefit from a low-cut prior to the Amp-block.
The exact frequency of the low-cut will depend on the slope of the filter (and the guitar itself).
This does wonders to clean up... and tighten up the bottom end."

This is new to me...  though I've always tried to EQ accordingly.  So to clarify are you suggesting the low cut EQ be placed anywhere in the signal chain left of the amp block..... or specifically just before the amp block?  IE: The EQ would be the very LAST effect before the amp

Thanks

Chris

admin

#27
Quote from: BossHead on November 21, 2018, 04:18:06 PM
"All the modelers benefit from a low-cut prior to the Amp-block.
The exact frequency of the low-cut will depend on the slope of the filter (and the guitar itself).
This does wonders to clean up... and tighten up the bottom end."

This is new to me...  though I've always tried to EQ accordingly.  So to clarify are you suggesting the low cut EQ be placed anywhere in the signal chain left of the amp block..... or specifically just before the amp block?  IE: The EQ would be the very LAST effect before the amp

Thanks

Chris

That EQ tip was from Jim Roseberry at The Gear Page
Most apply this  type EQ trick in the block immediately in front of the amp sim block.

It's similar to the old trick that British Blues invasion employed ( clapton on Mayall Beano LP where he used a treble booster in front of his Marshall tube amps=  the net result was a more refined tone without any flub

On paper the signal flow logic appears at odds " this must be wrong"  but the net result is a tighter definition for the notes and less mud.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treble_booster

http://www.gibson.com/News-Lifestyle/Features/en-us/myth-busters-eric-claptons.aspx

BossHead

Oh  thank you for the articles, nice read.   Particularly because I am in fact a long time less Paul player

Always loved the 5150 on the GT100, and Ive found a rectifier patch on the 1000 I love..... but for me its always been about the dirty tweeds. I love placing some overdrive in front for great full character all around lead playing and feel.  However I noticed on the 1000 this brought out more mud on the tweed, nearly regardless which dist I chose. Think I settled on the X dist last night as its brighter, yet almost too much top end.  Typically prefer a more basic overdrive or tube scream

Anyways hitting the lows right before the amp block and subsequent highs after the block did seem to help! I'll plug in later for fresh opinion on my work


Danelectro

Sometimes it pays to open the manual.  After turning no farther than the first page of the Parameter Guide, I learned that when you press-n-hold the SEL/MOV knob (knob #6) when in the edit screen, and the screen changes to show all parameters on one screen.  You still need to press the PAGE buttons to cycle through the "index cards" for editing, but at least you can see all parameters of an effect at a glance.

The default edit screen:


The "all parameters" edit screen:

roachone


DML

Quote from: Danelectro on December 10, 2018, 08:29:50 PM
Sometimes it pays to open the manual.  After turning no farther than the first page of the Parameter Guide, I learned that when you press-n-hold the SEL/MOV knob (knob #6) when in the edit screen, and the screen changes to show all parameters on one screen.  You still need to press the PAGE buttons to cycle through the "index cards" for editing, but at least you can see all parameters of an effect at a glance.

The default edit screen:


The "all parameters" edit screen:


Above that, if you push-n-hold the rotary knob that points to that specific parameter, it will assign that same parameter to the assign matrix right away.
Boss GT-1000core, Gibson Explorer 2018, Höfner travel guitar, 4x Framus Renegade Pro, Framus Panthera, Framus Panthera Custom 7, G&L Asat, Rocktron/Egnater Velocity Valve, 2x Mesa Thiele EVM12L, 2x Mesa Thiele EVM12L Road Ready, Voes MX12 midi controller, Ovation 2078TX-5 Elite, PJB Cub II - AG150.

admin

https://www.facebook.com/groups/bossgt1000/permalink/414217295998506/


Loïc GKeredan
Yesterday at 8:14 AM
Bluetooth connection with V2 and Ios device problems:
If you have difficulties to be connected to your Ipad or Iphone after the V2 update (Gt1000, and ios app),
- first go on IOS bluetooth parameters and delete your previous appairing Gt1000 device. ( because the Gt1000 V2 looks like a new bluetooth device)
- Then switch off/on your bluetooth (then the Gt1000 device shoud not be present because not yet apaired to your device)
- Launch the Gt1000 app on your ios device
( don't forget to switch on the bluetooh on you Gt1000)..
- do a new apairing with your new Gt1000 (V2)
Hope this helps

admin

#33
https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?posts/27947486/

Jerome Forrest wrote>
Just a quick tips : I've seen some "metal zone review videos" and they all say that this pedal is better after the preamp.
I've deepened my search and it seems that the metalcore is in the same case (see Andertons with Chapman).

SO, I've put the Metal Core pedal AFTER the AIRD AMPs : the results were wonderfull ! More fullness, very agressive tone (excellent for metal), a lot more distortion (I've got low output pickups), EQ more responsive etc...

I've struggled to find a good 90' metal sound and it was IT (Metallica/Megadeth in a second) !
For a more modern metal sound, I find Centa OD + Juggernaut is a must !

Quotebinge said: ↑
What AIRD amp do you use the Metal Core after? Do you then run and EQ after the Metal Core?
X-crunch on low gain : gain 70, sag +7, reso +6, level 70, bass 60, mid 50, treble 50, pres 40, bright off
This setting is insane good (found in this forum). You can add anything at this plateform.
Cab original with dyn421, medium, 3cm.
The metal core is after and no eq, I prefer messing up with the mic&cab.


[/i]

admin

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?posts/28141837/

Danelectro wrote>
I don't like the default layout of the buttons at all because the CTRL buttons are on the top row. This means that when I'm mid-song at a gig and I want to hit a CTRL button, I must hover on one foot and while I aim the other at a top row CTRL button. When I need to add an effect at a precise moment in a song, I prefer to plant my heel planted in front of a CTRL button so that I can activate the effect without even looking down at the board.

Luckily, Boss allows for us to reassign the functions of the buttons. What I had set out to do was simply swap the top and bottom rows, however I found that you cannot move the PATCH 1,2,3,4, and 5 buttons to the upper row.

Here's the arrangement that I ended up with instead:

The bottom 5 buttons all act as stompboxes. I've used a GT-100 for 6 years, and I am accustomed to always having a CTRL button just to the left of the expression pedal which I assigned to the Divider to change between Amp 1 and Amp 2, so on the GT-1000, I made Button 5 the Divider on every patch. I assigned Button 4 to always toggle the Distortion on/off, and Button 3 to always toggle EQ4 on/off which I have set as a mid-boost. The functions of Buttons 1 and 2 vary from patch to patch.

Note that I printed labels on my computer to hide the silkscreened legend. I assigned LED colors to the bottom row such the the buttons are all blue except when the stompbox is active in which case it turns red. I also made a mask from black electrical tape to change the shape of the upper row LEDs to arrows



In order to change between Banks and Patches, I assigned the first two buttons in the upper row to be Bank Down and Bank Up, and the next two buttons to be Patch Down and Patch Up. The far-right button in the upper row is dedicated to the tuner.

With this setup, its a little more awkward to bounce between patches, but that's not a big deal because its something that I only do between songs. The important thing is that any buttons that I need to press during a song are on the bottom row. This drastically decreases the chances pressing the wrong button in the middle of a song.

Something else that I did was to change the functions of the knobs such that knob 2 is the OD level, knobs 3 & 4 are Level and Gain for Amp 1, and knobs 5 & 6 are Level and Gain for Amp 2. This makes it easy to make quick level changes without going into menus.

Everybody's style of playing is different. This setup works for me, but may not work for you. If you spend some time learning the various customization options, chances are you can find a way to make the GT-1000 work for your style.

admin


admin

QuoteJiveTurkey said: ↑
Yep. I added my usual decouple the block request as well. This would allow you to run things in 4cm, keep AIRD preamps off but have a cab enabled at the Subout to send to FOH. And additionally would allow me to change that cab to a flat cab (null IR if such a thing existed?) when I send my synth through the signal chain. My use case is weirdo but I am sure others could find their own versions of this issue and see it as a fairly elegant solution.


PAH wrote>
I'd like the cabs decoupled from the output, too, for a variety of reasons. However, in the meantime, in case you aren't aware of this trick to work around it in your scenario...

You could setup your chain like this (adding other blocks wherever you want):



1) set Div1 to dual mode, dynamics off, filters off
2) set Mix1 to stereo, A/B balance at 100:100
3) the send/return is connected to your physical preamp
4) main outs are connected to your physical power amp + cab, output select set appropriately, Main cab block turned off if output select set to recording
5) Amp1 enabled with gain and level set to 0 - no sound passes, but it will fool the sub speaker into enabling because it will see an amp in the signal path
6) sub output select = recording, sub speaker setup however you want

When you're playing synth sounds and you don't want a cab on the sub, just turn off AMP1 (and AMP2 if it is in the path to the sub outs) and the sub out speaker block will disable

JiveTurkey

Quote from: admin on May 25, 2019, 08:19:14 AM

PAH wrote>
I'd like the cabs decoupled from the output, too, for a variety of reasons. However, in the meantime, in case you aren't aware of this trick to work around it in your scenario...

You could setup your chain like this (adding other blocks wherever you want):



1) set Div1 to dual mode, dynamics off, filters off
2) set Mix1 to stereo, A/B balance at 100:100
3) the send/return is connected to your physical preamp
4) main outs are connected to your physical power amp + cab, output select set appropriately, Main cab block turned off if output select set to recording
5) Amp1 enabled with gain and level set to 0 - no sound passes, but it will fool the sub speaker into enabling because it will see an amp in the signal path
6) sub output select = recording, sub speaker setup however you want

When you're playing synth sounds and you don't want a cab on the sub, just turn off AMP1 (and AMP2 if it is in the path to the sub outs) and the sub out speaker block will disable
Just tested and it works excellent. Great workaround.

admin

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?posts/28654779/

QuoteJCW308 said: ↑
I'm struggling with stompbox mode on the GT-1000. I'm thinking about not using it. Is there a way to globally disable?

PAH wrote>

That depends on what you mean by "stompbox mode."

There is a "Stompbox" feature for sharing effect module parameters between multiple patches. No global disable for that. You have to go through each effect in each patch and for any that are using a stompbox setting, you'd need to tell it to copy the stompbox into the patch and turn off the stompbox setting.

There is also "Manual mode" and "pedalboard mode." Both of which (sort of) configure foot switches to act like more traditional stompboxes (i.e. effect on/off). Pedalboard mode can only be disabled/enabled globally. Manual mode can also be disabled/enabled globally, but it could be reenabled with a footswitch configured for controlling Manual mode, so you'd want to change the control function for any footswitches setup as Manual, Tuner/Manual, or Manual/Tuner.

admin

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/new-boss-gt-1000-guitar-effects-processor.1905672/page-367

QuoteJCW308 said: ↑
I know, I just don't want it [stompbox feature] turned on!

PAH wrote>
The stompbox feature isn't really turned on or off. It's just there. Nothing says you have to use it. The last parameter in each effect block lets you choose which stompbox to use, or none (blank). If you set it to none, the effect settings are just in the patch (or pedalboard for pedalboard mode). If you have every effect in every patch set to no stompbox, then all those stompboxes are just sitting unused on a virtual shelf. Is that somehow causing a problem?


QuoteJCW308 said: ↑
That's what I wound up doing. Just set the stomp box "box" to blank (-------------). Seems to be working fine now and I need all different levels and settings in all of my patches.

PAH wrote>
Also, note that by pressing the knob below the stompbox parameter, it will take to to a stompbox selection screen, where you can copy the settings in the patch to a stompbox or from a stompbox to a patch. By copying stompboxes to patches, and leaving the stompbox parameter set to blank, you can quickly get a favorite setting as a starting point, but have separate copies in each patch to tweak as needed without affecting the other patches. So, you can use stompboxes to share settings between patches or just as quick starting points.

admin

Quotehttps://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?posts/29013146/

xuoham said: ↑
Thanks for addressing the problem ! (yes, i am late to the party)

I have most of my guitars with dual output (mag pu + piezo transducer into one return block with "send" to zero ) and this is becoming annoying to a point that i'd rather route my guitar into Ableton Live rather than use the GT1000 which i love otherwise.

My problem is that i use a dual signal path with a "transparent" amp for the piezo and a "boutique" amp for the magnetic pickup, and unless i turn off the "transparent" amp, the "boutique" amp gets routed to the "transparent" speaker and i get all this high end shrill content on my "boutique" amp ... not cool for slight breakup sounds, that sounds completely crap.
How come the amp speaker of one signal path influences the other one ?? That's not true dual signal chain ! Whatever option i choose, stereo link or not, stereo or LR for the mixer, the "transparent" speaker rules the other amp's speaker.

I thought that maybe the "transparent" amp actually has no speaker simulation, but it is the same with the "natural" amp.

So my only option is to have the piezo "transparent" amp shut off and boost its high end a lot, since it gets automatically routed to the "boutique" speaker. grrrrrrmmmbl ....

Of course, i could move each speaker *IN* the dual chain's respective A and B pathes, but then the effects after the mix of A and B signals are out of the signal chain.

When, oh when, will the speakers and the outputs be completely independent ??

How is it with the Helix, Headrush, Axe FX etc ... ?

Does Boss understand the problem ?

PAH wrote>

Boss has been told. Whether or not they'll address it, who knows. In the meantime, here is what I've found the behavior to be and the possible workarounds:

Assumptions:
- output select is set to recording
- "input" means the normal instrument input on the GT unless otherwise specified
- "return" is one of the effects loop returns, possibly used as an extra/alternate input
- setting a level to 0 does not break the signal path, it just attenuates the signal

None Obvious Behaviors:
- Going through an enabled send/return block with nothing connected to the send or return does not break the signal path. The send signal is internally connected to the return signal in that case.
- If there is no enabled amp block in the signal path between the input and the speaker block, the speaker block is disabled, regardless of the speaker settings.
- If there is one enabled amp block in the signal path between the input and speaker block, and the speaker is set to original, the speaker type is determined by the enabled amp in the signal path.
- If there are two enabled amp blocks in the signal path between the input and speaker block, and the speaker is set to original, the speaker type is determined by AMP 1's amp type.

Some workarounds for magnetic + piezo guitars (assuming mags are connected to input, and piezo is connected to a return):

To use either mag or piezo, but not both at the same time...
- use a divider/mixer in single mode, with the mag amp in one channel, and the return + transparent piezo amp in the other channel. Leave the speaker set to original. Switch divider channels to switch between mag/peizo. The speaker type will switch with the divider, because the amp type in the signal path is changing.
- Alternatively, don't even use an amp for the piezo, use an EQ block instead. This frees up both amp blocks for the magnetics. When the above divider is switched to the piezo, the speaker will be disabled.

To use both mag and peizo at the same time...
- use amp 2 for the piezo and amp 1 for the magnetics. That way the original speaker setting is based on the magnetic's amp. The high end of the piezo will be affected, but it is better this way than having all the highs from the magnetics getting through the speaker.
- alternatively, use an EQ instead of an amp for the piezo. Then, as long as you are only using either the main or sub outs, but not both, you can use a divider/mixer in dual mode after the speaker. Put the return + peizo EQ in one channel and nothing in the other channel. This gets the speaker applied to the magnetics, but not the peizo.

If you need to mix the magnetics and piezo, and go out both the main outs and the sub outs... continue to hope Boss updates the firmware to allow moving the speakers independent of the outputs... or use an external splitter for the peizo to go into both returns and put one return after the main speakers, and the other return after the sub speakers.

PAH

Quote from:  admin on August 27, 2019, 12:29:22 PM
GT-1000 Force Mono Output Mode for all Outputs 

Roland/Boss technical support folks and this is what they said:
"You may use either LEFT or RIGHT XLR SUB OUT however don't use the STEREO LINK, deactivate it in the EFFECT CHAIN by pressing EFFECT button and use KNOB 6 to navigate and select the SUB OUT L/R ICON, use KNOB 1 to un-STEREO LINK the LEFT and RIGHT so that they are MONO OUTPUT not STEREO LINK."
So, YES, it can output mono.


Apparently, Boss misunderstood the questions.  This does NOT stereo sum to mono.  Turning Stereo Link off for the speaker sim just splits the stereo image into separate mono L and R paths, letting you apply different speakers and post-speaker effects.

If you want stereo summed, you can do any of the following:

1) Use the 1/4" left/mono output with nothing plugged into the 1/4" right jack.

2) just before the Sub speaker sim(s)/out(s) put a divider/mixer pair with the divider set to dual, and the mixer set to Pan L/R.  After the mixer, you will have a stereo summed mono signal on both the left and right channels.  You can move the main outs before the divider if you want to keep stereo an option there.

3) If you haven't got a divider/mixer free, but you have a free Send/Return... just before the Sub speaker sim(s)/out(s) put a Send/Return that you aren't using and nothing is connected to.  Enable the send/return, and configure it for normal mode, with send and return levels = 100.  After the send/return, you will have a stereo summed mono signal on both the left and right channels.  You can move the main outs before the divider if you want to keep stereo an option there.  Unfortunately, the send/return in this case converts from digital to analog and back to digital.  When nothing is connected to the return, the send is internally connected to the return.


JiveTurkey

I'VE REGISTERED AT THE ROLAND ZENDESK AND AM NOW READY TO CONTRIBUTE.

admin

#44
Me too!

The ZenDesk forum used to be for Canadians only  - but it appears this Roland / Boss User Forum arrived a few months ago for all Roland/Boss users

(observe the "Rolandus" in the URL)
https://rolandus.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360046945571-BOSS-GT-1000-LEVEL-CH-A-CH-B


jwoertz

When I do the tuner trick with the pedal down, it cuts off reverb and delay trails. Is there any way to have the tuner not cut off the tails but still cut off the guitar input signal?

PAH

Quote from: jwoertz on December 23, 2019, 07:03:58 PM
When I do the tuner trick with the pedal down, it cuts off reverb and delay trails. Is there any way to have the tuner not cut off the tails but still cut off the guitar input signal?

Sure.  Configure the tuner output mode to "Thru" and then setup an assign to enable some block that will mute the guitar signal somewhere in the chain before the delay/reverb.


admin

#49
guitarchitect wrote>

I found a way to get a faux harmonic tremolo sound in the GTK. I have always loved this sound, and the tremolo effect in the GTK is solid but somewhat vanilla sounding. I listened to a bunch of YT videos on various pedals that go for this sound, mainly the Strymon Flint and a video on the Pedal Show. It took some experimenting but these setting using a Parametric EQ block with an Assign using the wave pedal to vary the gain of the low-mid gain band gives a really nice sounding frequency modulated tremolo. The lows and highs stay intact, so the definition of the notes and chords retains detail, while the middle spectrum does the work of creating the trem effect. It's a very cool sound, perhaps not in the same league as the Flint, but it sounds good - worth trying out and maybe improving if you are interested in this sound.

The downside is I can't easily alter the depth or rate on the fly with this method. It will respond to tap tempo changes because the wave pedal rate uses a 1/2 note division. I tried every frequency band in the Parametric EQ and the low-mid sounded the best, with a wide Q. The low-mid center frequency can be swept to fine tune the sound - I landed on 1 kHz sounding best to my ears. Finally, by setting the Act Range Lo on page 2 of the Assign to 35, it for some reason smoothed out the pulse of the tremolo - otherwise there was a noticeable warble in the sound that was more like a uni-vibe than a tremolo.


https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/new-boss-gt-1000-guitar-effects-processor.1905672/page-468#post-32311515