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Gibson's stocking policy is slowly killing the brand in Nordic countries. To sell a Gibson Custom one need to stock: 10 Epiphones, 10 Gibson regulars and at least 3 custom guitars. With a 15-20% margin that's a lot of money locked in inventory in countries with a combined population smaller than Texas. Fender have a slightly better standing and therefore Gibson is left out of the stores.

Indeed - this issue is definitely the hurdle.

Its called the "Buy in" terms for qualification as a Gibson Dealer.

It can hit $150k-$175k per year , and explains why there are few Gibson dealers. Gibson figures if the dealer can not sell that quanitity per year  - who needs them. 
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User Projects / Blogs / Re: Thomas Nordegg - TimeSpeed Studio
« Last post by admsustainiac on Today at 02:06:59 AM »
FZ Footage shot by Thomas Nordegg

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Just saw this.
Short answer is "no".
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Gibson's stocking policy is slowly killing the brand in Nordic countries. To sell a Gibson Custom one need to stock: 10 Epiphones, 10 Gibson regulars and at least 3 custom guitars. With a 15-20% margin that's a lot of money locked in inventory in countries with a combined population smaller than Texas. Fender have a slightly better standing and therefore Gibson is left out of the stores.
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General Discussion / Re: The Hate is Spreading to Marshall
« Last post by Rhcole on Yesterday at 11:26:55 PM »
The buffoon who wrote that crass and inappropriate note to you is in terrible pain. Behind the smirks and rudeness there is always a dark story that you can be grateful isn't yours to know.
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hi guys, sorry to bump a zombie but i thought this may be relevent or useful for someone else.
i read this post after joining a couple days ago, and decided to have a go at modifying my vg88.
i use a gk2a with it (or a gk2 depending on which guitar) and on some of the patches the subharmonic crap was terrible.
really drove me nuts.
so i thought about the suggestions and solutions previously posted and figured as the guitar doesn't have much to it below around 50hz,
that i could go up in decades to "tune" each string accordingly. i wanted to leave some wiggle room for the guitars with wiggle sticks on them, so they could track divebombs and such. so with the help of another jim on aron's diystompboxes forum we figured out some "offsets" if you will for different caps for each sensor in the hex.
caps are kinda funny, you can make 'em twice as big, and they drop about an octave. same with when ya make them half the size.
so starting with the idea of me being too lazy to type much more, it's c/p time... <take it away, pink>

from http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118915.new#new

so i'm thinking you want to have a range that will cover about an octave drop on the low e, and maybe a 3rd down on the high e.

not being particularly bright or versed in magic myth or science lore,

it seems to me that it would work better if EACH string had its own size of cap.

if i went with say 150n  for the low e, that should cover (ballpark'd, of course) me down to a low enough pitch to improve the tracking, reduce the noise, and still be able to whammy ridiculously.

so by my unschooled logic, the d string, being about an octave higher than the low e should then get a cap around .082n, and then the high  e about 47n, right? being only two octaves apart, this orter work i would think.

so i'm thinking around 100n for the a string, and around 68n for the b string.

does this make sense? the suggestion is to replace 'em all with the same sized cap, but it seems to me that that's not gonna fix the subharmonic problem across the fingerboard.

well, the deed is done.

i bricked the fuggin' thing. or so i thought. a quick factory reset and all was well again, i hadn't programmed anything into it yet anyway.

when all was said and done, with the skinniest string being #1 (i hope)
i used the following... figuring they would be close enough for rock n roll.

string 1,(e) c138 47n/.047uF
string 2,(b) c166 56n/.056uF
string 3,(g) c167 68n/.068uF
string 4,(d) c174 100n/.1uF
string 5,(a) c175 150n/.15uF
string 6 (e) c176 220n/.22uF

my immediate thoughts are after messing with it for the last couple hours that its a worthy improvement. i have a feeling i should have gone smaller than i did for the higher pitched strings.
they still have some of that annoying subfrequency noise, so i'd imagine high to low .022, .033, .047, .1 , .15. .22 would be even better.
can't say for sure without testing further, but i am pretty lazy and for my uses i think it's close enough for rock and roll. i bet going right up the scale in decades with the nearest closest value for whatever caps is fine.
it definitely tightened up the tracking of the low strings noticeably.

fwiw, i used all regular ceramic discs for the caps. they work great, are small, and @#$% them 10uF electros ;)

thanks elantrik and all the others who posted this info. i hope somebody finds this useful.
i think you can tailor each string to whatever frequency range you want it to reproduce, and avoid some of that subharmonic hassle.
a solder sucker, 10cents worth of caps and a half hour later, its very cool.
i'm lucky that i didn't totally brick it.

anyways, hope this helps. peace out.
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Boss Katana Amp - General Discussion / Re: Katana - MIDI over USB
« Last post by admsustainiac on Yesterday at 08:55:32 PM »
Sorry, should have been more specific. Wish there was a way to scroll the 3 effects without spending another $185, like, directly, with one of the controllers I already have! Though, if it was really important to have full control, a VooDoo Labs Ground Control and a Korg nanoKontrol with the MidX would pretty much cover ALL the bases! Cost more than the amp, but what the hey....

Meanwhile, the GA-FC works fine for basic LIVE work, two banks of four - Clean, Crunch, Lead and Brown with different effects on each bank, and the ability to load different Livesets from a tablet, makes for a pretty flexible rig.

For 90% of the folks who need more effects with katana Amp - try running Guitar into an A/B Box ( A Out> Katana Input, B Out > GT-1 Input and feed  Boss GT-1 output into the Katana Aux input

Details here:
http://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=19581.msg140782#msg140782
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Roland GR-55 Discussion / Re: Gk3 & Gr 55 too much high frequencies
« Last post by shawnb on Yesterday at 08:39:54 PM »
When line/phones is selected, it helps to use a simple amp sim.   When configuring the amp sim, experiment with speaker type and mic position. 

Too-bright sounds, in reality and in amp sims, can come from putting the mic right on the center of the speaker.  Increase the offset from the center (mic position).
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Boss Katana Amp - General Discussion / Re: Katana - MIDI over USB
« Last post by rd2rk on Yesterday at 08:12:06 PM »
Sorry, should have been more specific. Wish there was a way to scroll the 3 effects without spending another $185, like, directly, with one of the controllers I already have! Though, if it was really important to have full control, a VooDoo Labs Ground Control and a Korg nanoKontrol with the MidX would pretty much cover ALL the bases! Cost more than the amp, but what the hey....

Meanwhile, the GA-FC works fine for basic LIVE work, two banks of four - Clean, Crunch, Lead and Brown with different effects on each bank, and the ability to load different Livesets from a tablet, makes for a pretty flexible rig.
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Roland GR-55 Discussion / Re: Gk3 & Gr 55 too much high frequencies
« Last post by mooncaine on Yesterday at 06:21:17 PM »
I feel it is likely to be a setting.

Since you bought it recently, this is worth asking: would you be willing to perform a 'factory reset' that completely resets its memory? That way, you'd be sure you were starting with all the settings in their default positions.
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