Best Strings for VGuitar and MIDI Guitar

Started by rhyane, March 26, 2009, 04:52:30 AM

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KuRi

I have been testing them further and you're right, most of the glitches I get is because of fret buzzing. When the string is vibrating, if there is a small fret buzz there are some chances you get an harmonic tone and then you can hear the glitch sound when playing PCM's.

First thing to do next week, work on this fret buzzing issue... Thanks.

gumbo

I've always run Elixir 10-52 on my RR Strat, FWIW...
...love them!!
8)
Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

KuRi

Good News! I took both guitars to a professional luthier, and the fret buzz is gone. I have decided to use 10-42 on both guitars, and I am more than happy, the GK3 is working perfect now on both configurations. Many thanks for all your advices :)

The only drawback is that I chose daddario half round for the LP guitar, and they sound very bad, I don't like them at all and I will be switching them asap to the same ernie ball set I used for the fender.

Regards!

datsunrobbie

Glad it is working out. Have to add my raised fingers for strats with no fret buzz - I have 10 of them :)

gumbo

Quote from:  datsunrobbie on March 13, 2014, 06:07:41 AM
Glad it is working out. Have to add my raised fingers for strats with no fret buzz - I have 10 of them :)

...was that Strats or fingers???    ::)
Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

datsunrobbie


Toby Krebs

Raise the action as high as you can stand it. That will improve tracking. String gauge has made no difference in my experience but muting with the left and right hand properly sure has.You must adapt your technique and play the instrument differently when using the PCM tones on the GR55. I subbed for a keyboard player at two gigs last weekend and had to really pay attention to what I was doing but it worked well and payed off financially too! The band offered me the gig! Once again all my years of playing tweaking and believing in GR synthesis pays off big time!

KuRi

#107
I don't know why but now the Fender is giving glitches and overtones again... and more often than ever!

I am really desperate with this issue... could be a problem with strings once they are used for more than 10 hours?

Elantric

#108
Follow all advice contained in these download able GR-55 docs.

www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?action=downloads;cat=18



Pay attention to the setup advice in Shawn B's GR-55 setup doc
www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=31



GR-55 Setups & Tone Configs that affect tracking
www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=6972.0



KuRi

#109
Thank you elantric, as always, for the links.

I have followed the setup docs for both guitars very carefully, and one is working perfectly and the other (the fender) is not. I am almost sure it is because my fender has a setup where overtones appears very very easily, generating high pitch glitches. I have tried different string gauges, bridge fine adjustement, different action setup, and the problem is always there (more or less severe depending on the setup), and the problem is almost not noticeable on the LP guitar...

I guess I must resign to live with a GK3 that won't work on the fender. I am using two different GK3's... could be a faulty pickup? (I don't want to mess things swapping both of them now that the second guitar is working good) xD

Elantric

#110
I find each guitar is unique and requires separate settings for Nuance and Velocity.

Follow ShawnB's examples and tips below



GR-55 Setups & Tone Configs that affect tracking
www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=6972.0

Quote
I've had my GR-55 since ye olden days, before Shawn collected all this how-to.
I got a new guitar, and using this doc I quickly got a set-up significantly better than my original one.
Never too old to read the documentation.  :-)
Thanks for the terrific information and advice.

Toby Krebs

If your luthier did not crown or "round" the fret tops you will have problems. Take a magnifying glass and look at the tops of the frets. If they look flat or have any divets your GK performance will be poor.They should have nice rounded tops.Also adjust that neck as straight as you can stand it.Any rubbery neck with a too loose truss rod causes problems too. Lastly as Eleantric pointed out for PCM tones the velocity/nuance etc...settings are critical.All this stuff works together and must be addressed at the same time.When I have a guitar that needs intonation/neck adjustments/frets getting worn and flat etc...I take it out of service and get another one going while I take care of all of it's problems at the same time. That's why I have 4 GK guitars in service at a time.

shawnb

#112
Two thoughts, thinking out loud here...

1) Sometimes after a setup, especially if truss rod changes were made, a guitar will "settle" and need a minor tuneup after a while.  Your luthier should do this followup for free.   I suspect this because it was working so well for a while.

2) The exact same thing happened to me after a setup recently, with fret buzz returning with a vengeance, and I went back to my luthier.  I admit I was a bit upset it was so bad.  My luthier looked at me funny, changed 2 strings, and the buzz went away.  Somehow (I have no idea how...), I had bent the 2 strings, almost imperceptably.  Look at your strings very closely, & if at all in doubt, change 'em.   The slightest kink causes issues - this really caught me by surprise.
Address the process rather than the outcome.  Then, the outcome becomes more likely.   - Fripp

lespauled

String gauges shouldn't matter.  The fact that you said you're changing gauge strings without a setup does matter.  Although going from 9s to 10s or from 10s to 9s wont make a big difference, they could make a slight difference that could create some small problems, like buzzing.

It is a worthwhile investment that EVERY guitar player learns how to set up their guitars.  If you have string buzz, you can easily do a setup.  As previously stated, setups are dynamic, where they will indeed settle and need further adjustment.

There are tons of online resources, but I really learned how to do mine with the book "How to make your guitar play great".   It should be a required read for any guitarist (other than extreme beginners). 

alexmcginness

I use 10-46 tuned down a half step. If I were to use standard tuning Id use 9s. Also the guitar Im using is a traveller Escape MKII with an acoustic pickup under the bridge which sounds better with the heavier strings.
   I bought a nut guage from Stew-Mac which I also use to adjust string height on my Strats. If youve got a guitar with individually adjustable string saddles, I highly recomend one of these for very precise setups. Its well worth the price.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Nuts_and_saddles/Nut_Slotting_Gauge.html
VG-88V2, GR-50, GR-55, 4 X VG-99s,2 X FC-300,  2 X GP-10 AXON AX 100 MKII, FISHMAN TRIPLE PLAY,MIDX-10, MIDX-20, AVID 11 RACK, BEHRINGER FCB 1010, LIVID GUITAR WING, ROLAND US-20, 3 X GUYATONE TO-2. MARSHALL BLUESBREAKER, SERBIAN ELIMINATOR AMP. GR-33.

jburns

been switching back and forth between 9s and 10s for years. it depends on my mood in the store. for the GK equipment I've owned neither make a difference for me. used DR strings for many years and switched to the elixir nanowebs about a year ago. while the tone is the same when i use elixirs compared to when i used DR or Ernie's, i personally feel like the elixir nanowebs give SLIGHTLY less depth or "3d-ness" on my vg99 but i use them because they last so much longer over usage. the difference is so small thats its hardly a compensation. so gauge or manufacturer have close to zero contribution to my ears comparing in alt tuning, soft synths, or how my instrument is tuned, from clean to heavy effect tones, etc. so choose the pair that your fingertips want.

KuRi

Thank you so much for all the comments. I am slowly learning how to properly setup my guitar and I am very happy that I am already making my own adjustments :)

The fender is almost back to normal operation after re-stringing with a new set... I hope this lasts longer.

kentchorder

Hi, just little note what I found out, this is only my impression from my tinkering with my guitars.
It seems to me that heavier gauges (10 or so) are more stable and manageable on guitars with whammy bar ( tremolo ) especially on guitars like Godin LGXT with piezo system where is not that easy to replace tremolo because of piezo. My theory is that greater overall tension allows you to go lower with strings without ringing also all this neck<> strings <> tremolo springs relationship seems to me more stiff. You can of course get some locking tremolo design to mitigate some of this though on some guitars.

Cheers!

xtr747

#118
Has anyone tried the Ernie Ball Cobalt and M-Steel Strings?  If so, have you noticed any output with the GK pickup and those strings?  Have you noticed any change at all with them?

Curious.

Thanks!

Elantric


aliensporebomb

#120
My M-Steel Video:

It's not so much of a review as I start with Cobalt Strings then progress to the M-Steels on the same guitar with my VG-99 and go thru a range of sound types.


Some people didn't like the video because they wanted me to decide for them but my opinion is, decide for yourself.  I found the Cobalts brighter overall or maybe the M-Steels just have a more obvious bottom to them.  if you have a bassy sounding guitar Cobalts will brighten it up.  If you have a trebly guitar the M-Steels will tame it a bit. 

My opinion is with the M-Steels the tuning stability with a non-locking trem is the best I've ever achieved.  And if I leave the guitar for a week or so in the case and I return to it it stays in tune.
Excellent.  I've never ever had that with a non-locking trem on a stratocaster.  Very happy with the stability.  The sound is good too.
My music projects online at http://www.aliensporebomb.com/

GK Devices:  Roland VG-99, Boss GP-10, Boss SY-1000.

Big Jim

I was using the EB super slinky, then went to cobalts. I couldn't figure out why my intonation was going out every couple of months. It was then pointed out to me that my Parkers stainless steel frets were wearing out my strings. I switched to the M-steel and life is great. they seem a bit louder and a bit brighter on the PCM but nothing a little tweaking couldn't fix. 4 months later and my intonation is still perfect. That's one problem solved. Now if I could just get a noise free cable I'd be happy.

musicman65

....and the jury is still out on fret wear.

Some say they never wear frets. I can groove up a good neck in 2 years. I play a lot and I play with a heavy hand. There is a certain tone you get when you dig in hard on the strings that I like.

I have started using Stainless Steel frets and they look perfect after a few years so maybe I'll give the cobalts a shot.

Has anyone broken a cobalt string yet? I break a D string after 2-3 weeks usually. If anyone else plays hard, breaks strings, and has seen an improvement with cobalts....I'd like to hear about it.

aliensporebomb

I never broke a cobalt and in fact used the same sets I installed a year ago.  Finally switched to M Steel and hope I don't have to change those either.  I really dislike changing strings and the fact these sound new longer is a big bonus for me.  Once I get a guitar dialed in I don't like to "dial it out" too soon if I can help it.
My music projects online at http://www.aliensporebomb.com/

GK Devices:  Roland VG-99, Boss GP-10, Boss SY-1000.

musicman65

Quote from:  aliensporebomb on July 01, 2014, 04:12:20 PMI never broke a cobalt and in fact used the same sets I installed a year ago.  Finally switched to M Steel and hope I don't have to change those either.  I really dislike changing strings and the fact these sound new longer is a big bonus for me.  Once I get a guitar dialed in I don't like to "dial it out" too soon if I can help it.
Thanks Alien. Were you prone to break strings (nickels) before switching? If so, how frequently?

I really do envy you guys that play with a light touch. Seems like heavy handed playing is rough on strings, frets, and bridges.