DIY - Replacing GK 13-pin connectors with more Reliable Alternatives

Started by stratrat, January 11, 2016, 01:34:11 PM

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stratrat

I need to make my MIDI gear more gig/road ready and robust so have been looking around at a variety of connectors to replace the 13-pin DIN plugs and sockets in my guitars, GR-55 and cables. Something that can take the rigours of the road and still be reliable.

So far the Neutrik MiniCON connectors are looking likely. Only 12-pin, but that just means dropping the pin-9 that 13-pin DIN stuff doesn't utilise. I'm a fan of Neutrik connectors already, and these look like they should be solid enough to trust in a gig environment, with robust, good-looking housings, solid pins, solder contacts and good strain relief.

Am I missing anything, or does anyone have any other comments or thoughts?

Elantric

Problem with Neutrik MiniCON - the Roland Gk interface uses all 13 pins, and works better if you use more than 13 pins, and allocate a dedicated Ground Pins!

info on a decent alternative Hirose 16 pin Connector

http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e12502017.pdf

The particular plug is:

HR25-9TP-16P




and the guitar side jack is:

HR25-9TJ-16S


https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=571.0

stratrat

Roland don't use pin 9 do they?

The looks interesting. Tiny! Hope the cable will fit in the plugs. I'll look into it. Thanks.

Elantric

QuoteRoland don't use pin 9 do they? . . .
Am I missing anything, or does anyone have any other comments or thoughts?

Actually since 2004, Roland GK-3 / GK-3B hex PU's do use Pin #9  - refer to :

GK-3's unique Pin 9 functionality explained
https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=5259.0

to enable/disable COSM Guitar/ GK Synth from the guitar was the point of the new use of formerly non connected "pin 9" with GK-3/GK-3B being the only 13 pin hex preamps that transmit a Control voltage on pin 9, based upon the current position of the 3 way switch. The VB-99/VG-99/GR-55/GP-10 all react to the Pin9 Control Voltage by transmitting appropriate  MIDI CC#7 ( MIDI Volume) message to enable/disable external MIDI Synth from the guitar.

stratrat

The pin 9 thing is not an issue for me, AFAIK, as I always route the guitar signal(s) completely discretely through separate cables and none of my guitars have mix switches (GraphTech Ghost equipped). I get you on the ground pin, but with a good chassis connection and good housings and sockets, is it still an issue?

The Hirose connectors are impressive from a size perspective - but I suspect they are bit too small and fiddly. Great of you're trying to fit it into the hole left by a 1/4" socket, but not so much a 13-pin DIN hole, where 16-17mm diameter for the chassis socket would be ideal as a drop in replacement. I'd also prefer a latching, push-pull or twist locking mechanism - secure, but quick, easy release.

I'm also looking at the LEMO connectors, which seem to be serious quality medical instrumentation grade connectors... A bit of a morass of info to wade through though, and I'm not sure if I can find a supplier that will deal in small quantities...

Majiken

Hey, that Hirose solution looks a lot more elegant than the VGA path! That means just modifying the guitar and a standard cable on one side, the downstream equipment needs no change. I like that!

Will check right away where I can get the connectors in Germany!
Take what you need, put back a bit more, leave the place behind you better than it was before :-)

www.majiken.rocks

Elantric

QuoteWill check right away where I can get the connectors in Germany!



Hirose 16 pin Male Plug
http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=HR25-9TP-16P(74)



Hirose 16 pin Female receptacle
http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/hirose-electric-co-ltd/HR25-9TR-16S(71)/HR1448-ND/1083586

gumbo

At the risk of being accused of avid self-promotion (which it is !), a Hirose plug-and-jack combination will set you back 53+ Euro, according to the Digi-Key web pages, while a Synth-Linx Jack (which fits in the same space as a Roland jack and has inbuilt flange mounting) will cost you the equivalent of just over 22 Euros including postage from Australia. Plus you can still use the standard GK cable without modification.

If you don't want to get involved in the process of soldering 13 small wires & the cable shielding, other more expensive options are available from the Synth-Linx range which have pre-connected wiring and the appropriate multiplugs to connect directly to the pre-amp circuit boards of GK2A & GK3 pickups, and the mainboards of GR-55 & GP-10 processors.

Information on the basic Synth-Linx Jacks is available here:

https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=8888.0

...for more information as to additional options and pricing, just PM me..

Regards,
Peter
Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

vanceg

I'm now using Lemo connectors.  I started on this path when I began investigating the CycFi NU pickups, and Joel at CycFi recommended the Lemo.  They are not cheap, but they are locking, the mechanism is PURE JOY to use, you can't bend a pin, and they are small.  My 19 pin version is only 1/4" wide.   That does make for some tight soldering, but Lemo makes connectors in any pin count.

I've got a build with the new CycFi pickups doing double duty as an improved GK-3 or as a standard pickup, and this install will use a Lemo connector and then a little lemo to 13pin breakout box...but you could just rewire the other end of an existing 13pin cable using a Lemo if you wanted.

vanceg

This looks like a great option for anyone who wants to stick with the standard 13 pin cable...and there are plenty of reasons to want that...


Quote from: gumbo on June 14, 2016, 05:01:05 PM
At the risk of being accused of avid self-promotion (which it is !), a Hirose plug-and-jack combination will set you back 53+ Euro, according to the Digi-Key web pages, while a Synth-Linx Jack (which fits in the same space as a Roland jack and has inbuilt flange mounting) will cost you the equivalent of just over 22 Euros including postage from Australia. Plus you can still use the standard GK cable without modification.

If you don't want to get involved in the process of soldering 13 small wires & the cable shielding, other more expensive options are available from the Synth-Linx range which have pre-connected wiring and the appropriate multiplugs to connect directly to the pre-amp circuit boards of GK2A & GK3 pickups, and the mainboards of GR-55 & GP-10 processors.

Information on the basic Synth-Linx Jacks is available here:

https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=8888.0

...for more information as to additional options and pricing, just PM me..

Regards,
Peter

Majiken

All I want is a goddamn connection that will allow me to play and move at the same time without having to boa-constrict the 13-pin cable around my strap and worry that my A string will drop out (main issue).  Peter, if your Synth-Linx jacks do the trick it seems by far the path of least resistance..... I will send you an email to the addy you mentioned in the other post.

I unscrewed the jack plate of my LGXT and realized it was on a PCB (doh)- took pics, but can't seem to get into Snapagogo right now to load and link  ???.  At any rate, there seems to be plenty of space for a non-PCB solution (my poor luthier- I can solder cables, but I ain't touching this!!).  Will continue to research my options (VGA, Hirose, Synth-Linx, Lemo) and hope to be able to choose and execute soon.

P.S.  Peter, I was in Oz in 2014; I have a brilliant aunt there who turns 90 end January 2017 and I promised her a show at her party :-).  Will be somewhere in the Blue Mountains, she herself lives in Surfer's Paradise.  Great country, lots of live music and good musicians!!
Take what you need, put back a bit more, leave the place behind you better than it was before :-)

www.majiken.rocks

Elantric

QuoteAll I want is a goddamn connection that will allow me to play and move at the same time without having to boa-constrict the 13-pin cable around my strap and worry that my A string will drop out (main issue).

Order a Gittler Cable
http://gittlerinstruments.com/d13-cable

Gittler Instruments LLC has designed and built a new superior D13 cable!

Our cables are available in 12 ft. and 18 ft. lengths.

Features:

-High Purity OFHC Copper 99.95%
-External Cable: 2.256″ Dia.
-Internal wire: 26 AWG, 13 different colored jackets
-Aluminum Shielding braid
-One end right angle, locking, assembly type
-One end straight, locking, assembly type
-Grounded to barrel
-All Pins Gold plated



AND READ
Not all 13 pin cables are created equal
https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=14448.msg103504#msg103504

A good GK-13 cable will avoid this situation

gumtown

Quote
move at the same time without having to boa-constrict the 13-pin cable around my strap and worry that my A string will drop out (main issue). 
I have the same problem with A string drop out, and the GK cable gets caught under my EXP pedal.
Sometimes I step/trip on the GK cable, causing the instrument end to pull tight enough to lift the neck end upwards.

And how is it that the GK cable itself coils/twists up without me having been spinning in circles.
Free "GR-55 FloorBoard" editor software from https://sourceforge.net/projects/grfloorboard/

gumbo

Quote from: gumtown on June 15, 2016, 03:37:56 PM
I have the same problem with A string drop out, and the GK cable gets caught under my EXP pedal.
Sometimes I step/trip on the GK cable, causing the instrument end to pull tight enough to lift the neck end upwards.

And how is it that the GK cable itself coils/twists up without me having been spinning in circles.

FWIW, the Gittler cable is by far the best that I have ever used, and certainly works well with a body-edge mounted 13-pin jack.

...and I don't know if it's just me, but it seems to not self-tangle as much either!  I put it under some reasonable tests back when I was evaluating its suitability for connection via a Synth-Linx Jack - not only did it perform well, it was also still quite easy to operate the release mechanism (although I will stress that it's a good idea to practice this a few times before you leap onto the stage with it and expect to do that in the semi-gloom with a couple of beers under your belt)...and I think the mechanism itself has slightly 'eased' now that it's been used a bit, and not straight out of the postbag..   ;)

Because the Synth-Linx Jack has a number of contact-points around the (internal) circumference of the Jack body, sometimes relatively-new cables (with hitherto fairly virgin jackplugs!) ..hey, I like that .. "Fairly Virgin"...must think where I can use that!!   ...anyway the point is that newish jackplugs sometimes have to 'wear-in' a bit from their sharp leading edge of the outer casing shell before they can be smoothly inserted in the Synth-Linx Jack...  ..a pain, but it still gives a better overall 'ground' connection..   ..the Gittler cable with its right-angle jackplug was reasonably smooth in its operation from the get-go, which made me realise the quality of the Gittler jackplugs was up on the other aftermarket alternatives..

Just my 2c worth...  ..I think it IS worth investing in the Gittler cable for a number of reasons, IRRESPECTIVE of what 13-pin jack you have in you guitar..   (my disclaimer ! )   ;D

HTH someone..

Cheers,
Peter

Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

gumbo

Quote from: Majiken on June 15, 2016, 02:47:53 PM
All I want is a goddamn connection that will allow me to play and move at the same time without having to boa-constrict the 13-pin cable around my strap and worry that my A string will drop out (main issue).  Peter, if your Synth-Linx jacks do the trick it seems by far the path of least resistance..... I will send you an email to the addy you mentioned in the other post.

I unscrewed the jack plate of my LGXT and realized it was on a PCB (doh)- took pics, but can't seem to get into Snapagogo right now to load and link  ???.  At any rate, there seems to be plenty of space for a non-PCB solution (my poor luthier- I can solder cables, but I ain't touching this!!).  Will continue to research my options (VGA, Hirose, Synth-Linx, Lemo) and hope to be able to choose and execute soon.

P.S.  Peter, I was in Oz in 2014; I have a brilliant aunt there who turns 90 end January 2017 and I promised her a show at her party :-).  Will be somewhere in the Blue Mountains, she herself lives in Surfer's Paradise.  Great country, lots of live music and good musicians!!

Majiken..
...thanks for that info, and the off-Forum email..replying to that separately as discussed earlier.

There are a few details that come out of your particular guitar's current connection that may possibly affect the installation of a Synth-Linx Jack assembly.  Not impossible by any means, but still a bit more work than usual.

This is something that I will discuss with you at more length in an email, but suffice-to-say for anyone else with a similar situation who may be listening in, if it is MAINLY the issue of the geographic impossibility of using a standard Roland cable, and the problems arising from that, then perhaps the first Port of Call should be getting hold of a Gittler cable (with its right-angle jackplug) as a means of solving the problem.

I have talked about that in the previous post to this thread, but quite apart from the quality of the cable itself, the incorporation of a right-angle jackplug allows SIMPLE & EASY anchoring of the guitar end of the cable through ( behind) the guitar strap...it doesn't stress the cable because of the layout, and one doesn't find an inconvenient (and possibly dangerous) 'loop' of 13-core cable dangling off the lower edge of the guitar...just ready to get caught on anything near...

If this helps anyone reduce the strain on their existing Roland jack to the point that drop-outs become minimised, well-and-good... 

When I designed the Synth-Linx Jack assembly, my two prime motivators were to (A) reduce the amount of real estate removal necessary to fit a Roland jack with its attached PCB in a new installation, and (B) provide a jack which had a better and more stable 'ground' connection to the shell of a jackplug on the end of a standard Roland GK cable.

In the five-or-so years that have elapsed since then, it has become apparent that the wear-and-tear on the ground connection 'blade' in existing Roland jacks has caused problems for some users and a further range of Synth-Linx products have been designed as retro-fit units to overcome some of these issues.

Rather than immediately just promote the fitting of a Synth-Linx Jack as being the ONLY fix for the problem, I would emphasise that it is good to also realise that the problem someone may be experiencing could be due to the cable (particularly some cheaper aftermarket substitutes that have attracted bad press in the past on the Forum!)...Elantric / admsustainiac has spent much time explaining all that in many past threads !   ...+100s for that !!!

To summarise then..first make sure you are using the best guitar-to-processor cable for your requirements...and yes, Gittler is a bit more $$ than some, but hopefully you can put it in perspective with the rest of the money you have already spent on V-Guitar gear   ;)    ...if your problem is with ANY cable still not establishing a workable ground connection with the original Roland jack, then I can fix that for you...   ...Synth-Linx Jacks are designed as bolt-in retrofits (and available with pre-attached looms and multiplugs to suit most guitar and GR / GP processor applications) and take up less room than that required to install a Roland jack in the case of new installations.

I hope this long post will help some to rectify any problems they may be experiencing, and clarifies my position as a seller-member in the Forum.

Please do not hesitate to contact me via PM or respond here should anything still need further explanation.

Kind regards to All,
Peter

Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

Majiken

First off, many many thanks to Peter and Steve for your great support!  On your advice, I have taken the following actions:



Quote from: Elantric on February 12, 2011, 01:21:46 AM

1 ) Apply a small amount of Caig De-Oxit to all 13pin connections on both ends of the cable. Dont forget the 13 pin connectors on your Guitar and your processor (VG-99,GR-55, etc)


2) At one end of the Roland GK13 pin cable, Depress the Cable lock on the 13pin male DIN plug end. 

3) While keeping the Cable lock depressed, rapidly insert and remove the 13 pin male DIN plug end at the GR-55 / VG-99 "GK IN" jack. Rapidly do this at least 10 times.

4) Swap cable ends.

5) Repeat Step #3 above.

6) Now, while keeping the Cable lock depressed, rapidly insert and remove the 13 pin male DIN plug end at the GK-3 "GK IN" jack.  Rapidly do this at least 10 times.

7) Swap cable ends.

8 ) Repeat Step #6 above.

I used Kontakt 60, which was mentioned as an alternative and which I have here.  I can wiggle the cable in my LGXT and interrupt the connections on the A and (now) D strings, but am sure that with the usual "strap-wrap" it will not be worse than before.  I have never used the 13-pin on a live gig before, but will tomorrow for the first time- wish me luck, I will report how it worked.  I have backups in terms of a reasonable patch for the LGXT acoustic jack plus my main acoustic, so I will not die  ;).
Take what you need, put back a bit more, leave the place behind you better than it was before :-)

www.majiken.rocks

Majiken

I also ordered a Gittler cable, had an initial obstacle in that the website first told me there was no shipping alternative  :o!  I sent them an email and Russ Rubman circumvented the system to allow payment, so that is on the way now.  Yes, the price is steep but if it works, NO QUESTION- my audience is there to be entertained, not watch me sort out some technical issues live and on stage (it was a little different back in '85 or so, when I was playing Top-40 and got a first-generation Ibanez wireless guitar transmitter- that was so exotic that my spending half the show in the audience made up for 2-5 guaranteed dropouts a night).  There is one concern about the right-angle plug that I have:  the difficulties in switching instruments on the GP-10 to allow non-13 pin guitars, basses etc. to run in parallel without having to plug and unplug that have been mentioned elsewhere.  To alleviate this, I bought a Fender ABY box- in addition to the 13-pin cable going directly from the LGXT to the GP-10, I run a regular guitar cable out of the LGXT mix 1/4" plug into "A".  I then run a regular guitar cable into "B" for electric bass, acoustic guitar, banjo & mandolin; the single output goes into the 1/4" GP-10 jack.  Baptism of fire tomorrow night, but works fine so far.  NOW- a right-angle plug is going to cover that GP-10 output, right? Will have to work through that- maybe a new LGXT jack arrangement will be necessary.....

I'd have uploaded a pic (Peter, will send to you by email), but Snapagogo seems to have gone tits-up.  Think I'll check out Photobucket- will just need to save the pics small enough, I don't perceive running into bandwidth problems with what I expect to use it for.

Thanks again for your help!

Best, Kenny
Take what you need, put back a bit more, leave the place behind you better than it was before :-)

www.majiken.rocks

Elantric

On Godin LGXT.  Take care not to get the Piezo bridge saddles damp with sweat 

They tend to cut out when wet

Majiken

Quote from: Majiken on June 17, 2016, 09:34:54 AM
First off, many many thanks to Peter and Steve for your great support!  On your advice, I have taken the following actions:



Quote from: Elantric on February 12, 2011, 01:21:46 AM

1 ) Apply a small amount of Caig De-Oxit to all 13pin connections on both ends of the cable. Dont forget the 13 pin connectors on your Guitar and your processor (VG-99,GR-55, etc)


2) At one end of the Roland GK13 pin cable, Depress the Cable lock on the 13pin male DIN plug end. 

3) While keeping the Cable lock depressed, rapidly insert and remove the 13 pin male DIN plug end at the GR-55 / VG-99 "GK IN" jack. Rapidly do this at least 10 times.

4) Swap cable ends.

5) Repeat Step #3 above.

6) Now, while keeping the Cable lock depressed, rapidly insert and remove the 13 pin male DIN plug end at the GK-3 "GK IN" jack.  Rapidly do this at least 10 times.

7) Swap cable ends.

8 ) Repeat Step #6 above.

I used Kontakt 60, which was mentioned as an alternative and which I have here.  I can wiggle the cable in my LGXT and interrupt the connections on the A and (now) D strings, but am sure that with the usual "strap-wrap" it will not be worse than before.  I have never used the 13-pin on a live gig before, but will tomorrow for the first time- wish me luck, I will report how it worked.  I have backups in terms of a reasonable patch for the LGXT acoustic jack plus my main acoustic, so I will not die  ;).

Well, did the gig last Saturday and faced the connection problems as expected, with the D string being the major culprit- before the DeOxit/Kontakt 60 treatment it was mainly the A string- WTF???? My duo partner played mainly acoustic 12-string and he doesn't thin out his playing from his solo gigs; in this particular instance that turned out to be less of a nuisance than usual :-P.
Really looking forward to testing the Gittler cable when it arrives, hopefully before next Saturday's gig...
Take what you need, put back a bit more, leave the place behind you better than it was before :-)

www.majiken.rocks

gumbo

Majiken, do you have access to try another 13-pin equipped guitar to see whether the problem follows the guitar or the cable?

Peter
Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

Majiken

Hi Peter,

great question, should have thought of that before! I have a 2 meter cable from Codesmart/Robert that I dug out, and here are my observations:  both the pins and overall plug construction from the Codesmart cable are noticeably more robust than the 5-meter cable I used live (will link pics as soon as I decide between Google and Photobucket); the Codesmart cable fits much more snugly into the LGXT jack and wiggles much less than the other one.  That said, neither cable "locks" into the jack of either the LGXT or the GP10- they should, correct?

My preliminary conclusion is that to achieve a perfect world I will need to address both sides of the connection. The Gittler cable is on the way and I am sure it will be a big help- Peter, shall we take the details on ordering jacks into email world? I will see my luthier tomorrow and run this issue by him.

Best, Kenny
Take what you need, put back a bit more, leave the place behind you better than it was before :-)

www.majiken.rocks

gumbo

Kenny,

By all means talk to me off-Forum about whatever is your next step if you wish..
...I have to get my head around the wiring on that jack-PCB on your guitar, but it's not a biggie (as we say here)  ;)

Talk to you more about that ..  I have a couple of ideas to run past you.

As far as cables 'not locking', yes...they ARE supposed to...usually the problem is the profile of the end of the locking pawl on the jackplug...I have found that this can vary considerably between brands of cable..  Essentially that can cause the bit-that-does-the-work of locking the cable to not penetrate far enough into the jack to engage with the appropriate chunk of metal in the jack BEFORE the jackplug reaches its maximum depth and bottoms-out on the plastic centre of the jack.

Somewhere I've got pics of a range of cables (and their jackplugs) which show markedly differing shapes to the end of the locking pawls...   ::)

Await the email avalanche...    :)

Cheers,
Peter
Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

Elantric

https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=19793.msg142306#msg142306

Follow up
Majiken wrote>
now that I have confidence in my 13-pin system with the Gittler cable and tfhe Synth-Linx jack in my LGX-T- went from system uselessness to 100 with those 2 things  :D..

gumbo

Quote from: Elantric on December 30, 2016, 11:13:27 PM
https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=19793.msg142306#msg142306

Follow up
Majiken wrote>
now that I have confidence in my 13-pin system with the Gittler cable and the Synth-Linx jack in my LGX-T- went from system uselessness to 100 with those 2 things  :D..

Thank you Steve !
...your cheque will be in the mail.. ;D

...and Happy New Year from South Oz !

Cheers,
Peter
Read slower!!!   ....I'm typing as fast as I can...

CVS

Quote from: Elantric on June 15, 2016, 03:05:02 PM
Order a Gittler Cable
http://gittlerinstruments.com/d13-cable

Gittler Instruments LLC has designed and built a new superior D13 cable!

Our cables are available in 12 ft. and 18 ft. lengths.

Features:

-High Purity OFHC Copper 99.95%
-External Cable: 2.256″ Dia.
-Internal wire: 26 AWG, 13 different colored jackets
-Aluminum Shielding braid
-One end right angle, locking, assembly type
-One end straight, locking, assembly type
-Grounded to barrel
-All Pins Gold plated



AND READ
Not all 13 pin cables are created equal
https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=14448.msg103504#msg103504

A good GK-13 cable will avoid this situation

I liked the video. What was this guy using to set up the cable loops on his guitar and his box so that the connectors themselves do not move and where can I buy them?